Skincare Trends: What’s Worth Trying and What to Avoid

TikTok is full of skincare “hacks” and trends, but not all of them are beneficial. Some popular TikTok ideas are actually backed by science, while others can irritate or even damage the skin. It’s crucial to approach these trends with a healthy dose of skepticism and a dermatologist’s guidance. Below we break down several TikTok skincare trends – what experts say can work, and which ones to avoid. Promising Trends to Try (Carefully) Skin Cycling. This TikTok-born method alternates nights of exfoliation, retinol treatment, and recovery. Dermatologists note that by focusing on one active ingredient at a time and giving your skin “recovery” days, you can maximize benefits while minimizing irritation. For example, a typical cycle might be: night 1 – gentle exfoliant (AHA or BHA), night 2 – retinoid, nights 3–4 – hydrating moisturizer (no actives). Over time, skin can build tolerance to retinoids and acids without constant irritation. Actionable tip: If you try skin cycling, use a gentle cleanser and moisturizer on all nights, and always wear SPF each morning. Slugging (Occlusive Moisturizing). Slugging – applying a thin layer of petrolatum (Vaseline) or similar occlusive ointment at night – has gone viral for improving very dry skin. Dr . Heidi Waldorf explains that petrolatum “is a very safe way to help restore the skin barrier and prevent surface water loss…leaving skin feeling soft, well-hydrated, and smooth”. However , it’s best for those with very dry or compromised skin. If you have acne-prone or oily skin, slugging can trap oil and lead to breakouts . Also, never apply potent chemical exfoliants or retinoids immediately under occlusive petrolatum, as it can over-sensitize the skin. Actionable tip: If your skin feels tight or flaky, try slugging 1–2 times a week. After cleansing and applying any normal serums or moisturizer , seal everything in with a thin layer of Vaseline. Skip it during breakouts or when using strong actives. Hydration and “Glass Skin”. Many TikTok skincare routines focus on achieving “glass skin” – a luminous, ultra-hydrated look. Dermatologists agree that the core of this is sound: hydrate well and protect against UV. Gentle cleansers, hydrating serums (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), barrier-repair moisturizers, and sunscreen are always beneficial . In fact, the American Academy of Dermatology notes that having a moisturizer and sunscreen as staples is a positive trend. But: layering too many products or heavy oils can clog pores. Actionable tip: Embrace hydration: look for humectants like hyaluronic acid or glycerin early in the ingredient list. Use a soothing moisturizer or lightweight night cream. And reapply SPF30+ daily, rain or shine. Snail Mucin & K-Beauty Ingredients. Not all trending ingredients are dubious – snail mucin (a K- beauty favorite) has become very popular on TikTok. Studies show snail mucin contains hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, peptides and growth factors that boost hydration and support collagen. It can leave skin plump and smooth. While it’s not “miraculous”, it’s generally safe and hydrating . Actionable tip: If you see snail mucin in a product, it’s mostly acting as a moisturizer . Patch-test if you have sensitive skin, but otherwise enjoy the extra hydration. Red Light Therapy. Some TikTokers tout red/near-infrared light therapy devices for skin. Dermatology experts say red light can stimulate collagen and has FDA clearance for some uses, but more research is needed. It's generally safe (mild tingling or redness is the worst side effect), but not a quick fix. If you have the budget and interest, this at-home therapy may help skin texture and healing , but it’s not essential. Actionable tip: If trying red light, use reliable devices and limit sessions per instructions. Always protect your eyes during treatment. Trends to Avoid (or Use with Caution) Gua Sha Facial Massage. Gua sha (stone scraping) is a relaxing facial massage trend. It can temporarily reduce puffiness and improve circulation, giving a short-lived brightening effect. But dermatologists warn it’s only a mild benefit: any results disappear in a few hours. Importantly, vigorous or frequent scraping can bruise or irritate skin. Treat it as a gentle self-care ritual, not a medical treatment. Actionable tip: If you enjoy gua sha, be very gentle, use oil/serum to glide, and don’t overdo it. “Face Tape” for Wrinkles. TikTok face tape (applying tape to smooth wrinkles while sleeping) makes skin look temporarily smooth only while the tape is on. Dermatologists say it does not remove or prevent wrinkles – once the tape’s off, lines return. Worse, tape glue can irritate skin, cause allergies, or even tear delicate facial skin. Over time, the stretching and pulling could increase skin laxity (especially on thin skin like eyelids). Actionable tip: Skip face-taping. For real wrinkle treatment, focus on proven methods like retinoids, peptides, laser or injectables under doctor supervision. DIY Kitchen Hacks (Lemon Juice, Vinegar, Baking Soda, etc.). Many TikTokers suggest using lemons, baking soda, apple cider vinegar , or other pantry items on skin. Dermatologists strongly discourage this. For instance, lemon juice can cause second-degree burns or worsen discoloration (it contains phototoxic psoralens). Baking soda disrupts skin pH and is too abrasive. Apple cider vinegar is acidic enough to literally burn healthy skin. Actionable tip: Always treat “kitchen skincare” hacks as dangerous. Better to use products formulated for skin. If you see an acid or citrus mentioned on TikTok, remember it’s usually stronger and riskier than labeled cosmetics. Glycolic Acid “Deodorant”. A recent TikTok hack is to use glycolic acid (an AHA) underarms to reduce odor . In principle, acids can lower pH and kill odor-causing bacteria. However , dermatologists caution this hack: glycolic acid won’t stop sweating (it’s not an antiperspirant) and underarm skin is very sensitive. Overuse can cause burning and irritation. Actionable tip: If tempted, don’t apply kitchen AHAs underarms. Instead, use a gentle glycolic body wipe or consult a dermatologist for safe options for dark or smelly underarms. Overuse of Actives/Mixing Too Many Trends. Sometimes fans combine multiple TikTok tips at once (e.g. slugging right after retinol, or layering 10+ products). Avoid this. Using potent actives (AHAs, BHAs, retinoids) back-to-back can strip the skin barrier . As Dr . King notes, layering strong actives under an occlusive is a recipe for irritation. Similarly, applying new products every night (like testing 5 different serums) makes it impossible to know what’s irritating you. Actionable tip: Introduce one new product or trend at a time, and give your skin a week or two to adjust. If irritation occurs, simplify your routine. Dermatologist Advice: Filter and Test Everything In summary, take TikTok trends with a grain of salt. A recent study found many TikTok skincare trends lack scientific evidence, and some (like gua sha or face tape) can even harm skin. On the other hand, trends rooted in basic dermatology (moisturizing, sun protection, gentle exfoliation) are fine. Always patch-test new routines (try a bit on your inner arm first) and remember: if it sounds too good to be true (or too strong and DIY), it probably is. Consult a board-certified dermatologist before trying extreme routines. And above all, focus on core skin health: daily cleansing, hydration, and sunscreen.

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