Exfoliation Explained: Chemical vs. Physical Exfoliants for Acne- Prone Skin

Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface. Done properly, it clarifies pores, improves texture and helps your skincare products penetrate better. For prone skin, choosing the

right type of exfoliant is key

Chemical Exfoliants (Acids): These include AHAs (like glycolic or lactic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid). Chemical exfoliants work by dissolving the glue between dead skin cells. BHAs such as salicylic acid are oil-soluble, so they penetrate into pores to clear clogging sebum and debris. Dermatologists often recommend BHAs for acne because they treat pimples from within. AHAs are water-soluble and exfoliate the skin’s surface, which can help smooth scars and improve tone. Kiehl’s explains that chemical exfoliants are typically gentler overall and less likely to cause tears or irritation than scrubs . Use a chemical exfoliant 1–3 times a week (depending on skin tolerance). Warning: Acids can increase sun sensitivity, so always apply sunscreen after exfoliating. Physical Exfoliants (Scrubs): These include creams or gels with granules (sugar , jojoba beads), brushes, or cleansing tools that manually scrub off dead skin. Physical exfoliation can leave skin very smooth, but it carries a higher risk of irritation—especially on inflamed or acneic skin. The rough particles or excessive rubbing can cause microtears and damage the skin barrier. For active acne, physical scrubs may spread bacteria or worsen inflammation. If you use a physical exfoliant, choose a very gentle formula (fine grains, moisturizing base) and use it sparingly (no more than once a week). Which is Best for Acne: Generally, chemical exfoliants are safer and more effective for acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid is a top choice because it unclogs pores and reduces inflammation. Azelaic acid (a gentler acid) can also clear pores and calm acne while fading marks. A light chemical peel (AHA or BHA) or a leave-on acid toner can be excellent treatments. Always follow up any exfoliation (chemical or physical) with a soothing moisturizer . Over-exfoliating or mixing too many exfoliants at once can backfire, so limit to one method at a time. In summary, exfoliating 1–2 times per week with a salicylic acid cleanser or lotion is often recommended for acne sufferers. Avoid harsh scrubs on active blemishes. Exfoliation should enhance skin health, not trigger more oiliness or irritation.

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